Surrounded on three sides by the sea, life in Mumbai draws much of its character from the beaches, seaside promenades and coastline. Beyond the central city are the beaches of Juhu, Versova, Madh Island, Marve, Manori and Gorai, one-time secluded seaside resorts.
Marine Drive (otherwise known as Netaji Sub-hash Road) links Malabar Hill to Fort and Colaba. This long, gracefully curving road along the buttressed sea-coast, viewed from the Hanging Gardens on Malabar Hill, provides at night a view of the glittering “Queen Victoria’s Necklace” and, by day and night, a panorama of Mumbai’s skyline.
Along Marine Drive runs a wide sidewalk, ideal for the early-morning jogger, evening walker and late-night stroller. During the monsoons the turbulent waves splash over the parapets.
In the south Marine Drive ends at Nariman Point. Close by are numerous offices, including those of Air India and Indian Airlines, but at the very tip of the promontory is the National Centre for the Performing Arts, set up by the Tata Trust in 1966. One of India’s premier cultural centres, it hosts exhibitions and puts on music, dance and drama performances. Chow-patti, at the north end of Marine Drive, is a stretch of sandy beach. In the evenings, it is crowded with people enjoying the cool sea breeze and stalls selling delicious Mumbai bhelpuri and other snacks. Chowpatti is famous also for its kulfi and ice creams. During the Ganesh Chaturthi festival processions from the city meet here with images of Ganesh, which are then immersed in the sea. The Taraporevala Aquarium, also on Marine Drive, has a good collection of tropical fish (open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm, Sun 10am-8pm).
Sacred places
Gillian Tindall called her historical study of Mumbai City of Gold and, certainly, the pursuit of wealth is a major occupation here. But Mumbaikars do not forget the “temples of their gods”, though often in pursuit of equally material aims. Appropriately, a major shrine near the racecourse is dedicated to Mahalaksmi, goddess of wealth and prosperity. Many in this cosmopolitan city attend holy shrines, whether of their own religion or of others. Peoples of all faiths queue patiently on fixed days of the week to make their offerings, whether at the tomb of the Muslim saint, Haji Ali, on the tidal island off the shore opposite the Racecourse at Mahalaksmi; or for the Wednesday “Novenas” at St Michael’s Church at Mahim; or at the Siddhivinayak Temple at Prabhadevi on Tuesdays. Bandra’s Fair, in celebration of the feast of St Mary, is centred on an image of St Mary at the Mount Mary Shrine and attracts thousands of seekers of succour and favors - with no particular distinction of caste or creed.
Gujaratis from the state north of Mumbai constitute a substantial proportion of the city’s Hindu and Parsi populations, and especially of its business community. Fleeing persecution in Persia, the Parsis migrated to Gujarat and moved to Mumbai in large numbers in the 17th century. Being Zoroastrians, they built Fire Temples and a “Tower of Silence” on Malabar Hill. The tower is an isolated facility for the disposal of the dead (dokhura) by exposure to the elements and vultures. Burial and cremation are ruled out for Zoroastrians, since they hold both fire and earth sacred. This very private and sacred site is off limits to visitors.
